Following on from the three previous exhibitions at GemGenève (Fabulous Carl Fabergé, Micromosaics through the ages and Automatons and Music) GemGenève’s organisers are keen to promote jewellery heritage alongside all the related Métiers d’art, offering institutions, firms and discerning collectors a more prominent place as part of the exhibition’s cultural programme.
For its seventh edition, GemGenève is inaugurating a poetic exhibition entitled The Pearl Odyssey. Bringing together more than forty jewels and outstanding pieces, the exhibition once again bears witness to the tradeshow’s commitment to promoting jewellery arts. Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, the Alfardan Collection, a private collector
and a number of partner exhibitors – Faerber- Collection, Heritage Gems, Horovitz & Totah, Joseph Gad, Nicolas
Torroni, Ocean Flame, Swiss Pearls and SSEF, and others have joined forces for this unprecedented undertaking, agreeing to display some of their most beautiful items.
In addition to this major exhibition, schools,
craftsmen, experts, authors,
historians, inuencers, curators, Heritage managers
from leading rms and creative
artists will also be in attendance, creating an inspiring community of true jewellery
and gemmology enthusiasts. Featherworking, AI, contemporary challenges, historic fakes, social media, jewels
of the 1940s, snakes… all these topics and more are being covered by GemGenève’s cultural programme,
illustrating the huge diversity and stature of the event’s contributing partners.
A space dedicated
to Métiers d’art
devised in partnership with the Romandy
Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI) and partner schools
Geneva Vocational Training
Centre for Arts & Crafts
(CFP Arts Genève) and École
Technique de la Vallée de Joux (ETVJ) will be hosting a programme of demonstrations of expertise by enamellers, chain-makers, sheath-makers, inlayers, laceworkers, glassmiths, and specialists in 3-D metal printing.
GemGenève’s high-quality cultural programme provides
a platform for all stakeholders in the world of jewellery.
Cultural programme developed by Mathieu Dekeukelaire.
Cultural Programme – GemGeneve November 2023
Donna Jewel X GemGeneve Project
Be the change
Movement means courage, growth,
and change towards new horizons. It generates union and implies consequences: it’s said that “the flapping of a butterfly’s wings generates a hurricane
on the other side of the world”; every little action is a step towards a revolution and the improvement of the world we live in. That’s why movement
is the theme of Donna Jewel’s creative project
in collaboration with GemGenève for November 2023. Students
are called upon to create a kinetic jewel: a jewel in motion that embodies the change they want to make – and be – in the world.
Project Description
The “Donna Jewel x GemGenève” project
arose from a desire to give voice to
creativity, culture and self- expression through the art of jewellery. The goldsmith’s art thus becomes
a language of freedom and universal innovation. Under the Creative Direction of Laura Inghirami, students
from the “High
Technician for the Production of High Quality
Made in Italy goldsmith
products – ITS class II”
of the Galdus School of Milan (academic year 2023/24) celebrate the excellence of “Made in Italy” in GemGenève; they represent the future of Italian
art. The exhibition is curated by Laura Inghirami, Donna Jewel, and GemGenève.
GemGeneve X Métiers D’Art
Developed in partnership with the Romandy Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI)
and partner schools Geneva
Vocational Training Centre for Arts &
Crafts (CFP Arts Genève) and École Technique de la Vallée
de Joux (ETVJ).
Métiers d’art preserve a tradition that stretches back for millennia. These artisans are creative magicians, transforming raw materials into works of art, their talent
transcending the generations to preserve unique knowhow. Sadly, some of the skills
in question are known only to their practitioners, while others are in danger of being lost altogether due to a lack of training courses.
With this dedicated Métiers d’Art Space,
GemGenève is seeking to highlight all the professions within the world of jewellery, many of which are little-known, in the hope that doing so will lead to new vocations among the younger generation.
Guest artisans and students studying
jewellery crafts from the two partner schools will be presenting their expertise in the exhibition’s Métiers
d’Art space
through demonstrations and informal discussions with visitors and exhibitors.
Enamellers, lapidarists, pearl-threaders, gold lace-makers, chain-makers, inlayers, laceworkers, glassmiths, and specialists in 3-D modelling
will be taking turns in talking about their craft and sharing their passion.
Confirmed crafts:
- Enameller: Matteo
Stauffacher
The art of grand feu enamel consists in applying layers of coloured
enamel powder on a surface which is then heated – in several firings – to temperatures of over 800°C, causing it to melt and create a smooth
coating featuring a particular design.
The technique is used in high jewellery and on watch dials.
- Chain-maker: Laurent Jolliet
Chain-makers make chains
entirely by hand. The process may take from one to two months depending on the type of chain in question. The chain-maker
works with gold, silver or platinum thread, coils
and links that are then painstakingly assembled. Worn on a daily basis, a watch strap produced using this technique
can last for up to 30 years.
Rose Saneuil has devised her own technique in the craft: multi-material inlaying, for which she has now lodged
a patent application. Multi-material inlaying involves
creating beautiful items such as intricate cases, watch dials,
and jewellery using
materials ranging from sycamore to lacewood, walnut burl, bone, straw, mother-of-pearl, leather, amaranth, zinc, shagreen, parchment, scarab elytra, Corian, brass, gold leaf, eggshells and more – combined in harmony.
- Gold lace-maker Sara Bran
Gold lace-making is a new, innovative
craft that builds on the basic jewellery and jewelsmithing practice of using a fretsaw for handmade
openwork, adding a further technical
dimension. The craft calls
for the laceworker’s keen eye, mind and hand – and all the knowhow of a jeweller familiar with techniques such as forging, welding, assembly, surface treatments and finishings. Gold lace-making is extremely
fine work, sometimes
even more so than lacework,
but has to be strong – and for jewellery pieces,
also has to correspond to the item’s desired shape and relief.
The art of lapidary consists
in cutting or re-polishing a rough or partly cut stone to show it off at its very best. It is mainly used on stones destined for jewellery
and watchmaking, although lapidarists are sometimes
asked to work on ornamental stones, too. Another
aspect of the craft involves engraving, particularly for signet rings and intaglios. The bulk of the work involves working afresh on stones that have been worn and so suffered from impacts, restoring them to their original splendour. Sometimes a jewel-setter may accidentally chip the stone during the setting process. In such cases, the lapidarist does the tiniest
amount of work possible to allow the stone
to be put back in the item in question.
- Glassmith: Béatrice Binétruy
Glassmiths specialise in the creation and restoration of stained glass. Techniques including cutting, assembly and the colouring
of pieces of glass enable glassmiths to create works of art and other decorative items.
- 3-D modelling: Clémentine
Schmid:
o Three workshop
topics:
Workshop 1 – 3-D Modelling
basics: Learn
about the fundamentals of 3-D modelling with our workshop
dedicated to essential
tools. Explore the creation
of shapes and how to make them on the basis of sketches; the use of Boolean logic to merge and subtract shapes;
deformation techniques, various
forms of duplication and more. Take a deep dive into the fascinating world of 3-D modelling
and develop the basic skills needed to bring your creative projects
to life!
Workshop 2 – Freeform Creative
Modelling: this
presentation explores the world of freeform modelling. Discover all the basic tools you need to produce freeform shapes! Understand how freeform shapes are used alongside
traditional 3-D modelling
to create untrammelled, innovative designs. Delve into this creative
method and find out about all it has to offer!
Workshop 3 – 3-D Modelling for Jewellery: Attend this workshop for a demonstration of the specific 3-D tools used in jewelsmithing to determine finger size, create precious stones, set and unset jewels, and create settings and claws. Immerse yourself in the world of jewelsmithing as you explore these specialised tools in a professional 3-D environment. Join us for an enlightening demonstration allowing you to discover these key skills.
- Pearl-threading workshop: Sabine Gyger
Pearl-threading involves
carefully threading a series of pearls on a thread in accordance
with a specific pattern or design.
For over 30 years now, Sabine Gyger has been threading pearls without
adhesive – a traditional method that is sadly no longer used, or only very rarely so.
- Art of covering: Vaudaux Genève
Founded in 1908 and based in Geneva, Vaudaux
is a Swiss firm specialising in the design and manufacture of presentation cases, accessories and high-quality fine leather goods for luxury brands.
Since 1987 the Romandy Jewelsmithing Crafts Association (ASMEBI)
has brought together jewellery and jewelsmithing artisans and companies
alongside all other industry
professionals. Its aim is to promote and represent these professions, as well as helping its members create synergies together and uphold the values of the trade.
Over and above
all this, it seeks to provide dual training
in jewellery / jewelsmithing and jewel-setting, maintain
the standards of these trainings, and ensure
future generations can perpetuate the association’s international reputation for excellence.
To extend the scope of its activities and responsibilities, ASMEBI
partners with VSGU, its counterpart for German-speaking Switzerland, to form OrTrA, the umbrella organisation for the jewellery and object
design professions, responsible for dual training
in Switzerland and full- time schools.
Having the professional association and schools in the same location at GemGenève is a way of strengthening ties and fostering interaction and support between professionals, trainers, students and apprentices. Collaboration with GemGenève is an excellent
opportunity to raise the organisations’ profile, promoting
and upholding their expertise as well as giving space to those
still learning their craft, enabling them to familiarise themselves
with the professional world
they are set to join.
Confirmed crafts:
- Jewel-setters: Ugo Mighali; Alice
Nicolet; Mehdi
Belharet & Lenny
Coppel The craft of jewel-setter has existed ever since humans
began making jewels.
During the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, the trade of goldsmith covered three specialisations: goldsmiths themselves, jewelsmiths and jewel-setters. These three became trades in their own right in the 1800s and 1900s. The art of jewel-setting consists in placing precious sones in jewels and watches using a range of techniques with varying degrees of difficulty, depending on the shape of the stones and the complexity of the item in question. Synergies and partnerships between jewel-setters, jewellers and jewelsmiths, watchmakers, lapidaries and diamond cutters are vital to the success of any project. The craft has changed considerably over the past forty years amid ever-increasing industrialisation. Jewel-setting workshops have split into two categories: some have followed industry, with quite large workshops working mostly for the watchmaking industry, while other small and medium-sized firms work mostly for jewellers and jewelsmiths. Working methods have also changed with the advent of binocular microscopes and mechanical and computer programs specifically designed for jewel-setting. As well as an artistic, creative side, the craft calls for good self-control and patience on the part of its practitioners.
Engraving is a handicraft for the most part, one that is closely
interlinked with luxury watchmaking. Engraving
involves creating a design on a surface
by removing material. It covers all artistic, artisanal
and industrial techniques that use cutting
or hollowing out to produce
an image, text, or any other form of inscription in a material.
Engravers decorate items entrusted to them using gravers, and work on almost
all types of metal. The two main techniques used are intaglio engraving (counter-relief) and low relief (relief engraving). The practice may also apply to other fields such as cameo engraving and stamping, as well as engraving to produce art prints.
- CFP
ARTS Genève / École Technique de la Vallée de Joux :
With a long tradition in Switzerland that is constantly evolving, training for the craft of jeweller/jewelsmith is being presented
at GemGenève with the help of students from the Geneva Vocational Training Centre for Arts & Crafts (CPF Arts Genève) and École Technique de la Vallée
de Joux (ETVJ).
Often hidden away in discreet workshops, the work of the jewelsmith will be on show in an attractive setting to promote
young students’ knowhow. They will be engaging
in two classic techniques on site: metalwork and wax sculpture.
GemGenève X Transmission – Talks And Panel Discussions
Snakes in jewellery: precious and sinuous symbols
By Gislain Aucremanne, Heritage Curator Director, Bulgari
A symbol of rebirth and transformation, the snake motif has crossed civilizations and legends
of all eras. Since time immemorial, this creature has fascinated the human imagination with its ability to renew itself by changing its skin, remaining
in contact with the earth and at the same time rising from it, sinuously wrapping itself into a coil and overcoming predators. It is therefore not surprising that the snake has become
one of the most often-depicted animals in jewellery history. From the noble jewels of Antiquity to the ambiguous reptiles of the Victorian era, from the protective talismans made by so many world cultures to the famous jewellery
icon
from Maison Bulgari in Rome, the snake tells us its precious story.
- Grand Entretien: Gabrielle de Montmorin x Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO, Chaumet
Jean-Marc Mansvelt,
who took the helm at Chaumet
in 2014, is busy extending the global reach of the Paris-based jewellers. An extensive
communication campaign has been embarked on to cover the history of the Maison, which dates back to 1780.
The fact is that Chaumet
has one of the largest
heritage collections in the world:
66,000 designs (the oldest of which date back to the early nineteenth century) 716 nickel silver
pieces (including 515 diadems), 60,000 negatives, including 33,000 plates
and 300,000 photographic prints,
as well as 117 visitors’ books, 434 accounting and inventory
books from Paris, London and New York, plus books on stones, pearls, and workshop
handbooks – not forgetting 20,000 items of correspondence between
the firm’s senior officers. Today, the Chaumet
collection comprises over 350 items from the worlds of jewellery, watchmaking and goldsmithing. Some of them will feature in the exhibition on pearls being held at GemGenève.
In recent years, the firm’s high jewellery collections have received universal acclaim for the beauty of their designs and the high levels of skill with which they have been crafted. Jean-Marc Mansvelt will be telling us how he devises themes together with the design studio and what he sees as being Chaumet’s style codes. He will also talk about the high jewellery workshop that has never moved from 12, place Vendôme in Paris where the firm set up in 1907 – and which has recently doubled its headcount.
The CEO will also expand on his strategy
for small jewellery
items with best-selling lines and the firm’s international development, looking at where it sits in a jewellery market
that according to recent surveys, is expected to be worth $500 billion in sales in 2025.
- Buying an antique jewel – panel discussion hosted by Gemmologie & Francophonie Moderator: Chloé Picard & Martial Bonnet, on behalf of the French-speaking gemmology association
Buying an antique jewel often means buying a piece of history – and sometimes a fragment of History itself.
The concept of ‘antique’ often brings with it connotations of sentimental, historic
and financial value, even though the materials used are sometimes
less precious than those used today. Another
specific concept to be borne in mind is that of provenance and the search
for provenance. How is a jewel documented, and where do you go to find information? What should be said – or disclosed – about an item’s history? Should some items never be sold?
Another consideration is preservation: can an antique
jewel be restored,
and should it? Can it be over- restored? Should the same rules apply
as in the art market,
with its ‘30%
principle’?
Speakers:
Chloé Picard & Martial Bonnet
(moderators)
Marie Chabrol, gemmologist, teaching manager (HEJ) Pierre Naquin, editor-in-chief, AMA magazine
Céline-Rose David, gemmologist, historian and expert consultant for auction houses
- My favourite Jewel
of the 1940s at GemGenève by Amanda Triossi (moderator)
This conversation will provide a unique
opportunity for GemGenève
exhibitors to share their most favourite jewel from the 1940s with the audience and explain the reasons behind their personal
choice. What will become apparent is how each great jewel is accompanied by a great expert with an exceptional eye. Amanda
Triossi will help unravel the stories that have established the reputation of such great experts – probably the most hidden gems at GemGenève.
Speakers:
Moderator: Amanda Triossi Dominik Biehler, Ernst
Färber Lindsey
Miller, Provockative
Celeste Wu, Designer (Emerging
Talent)
- Feathers and jewellery: the enchantment of colour.
The emotion of colour unites the art of featherwork and jewellery.
Jacques Cuisin,
Nelly Saunier, Stéphanie
Sivrière and Jean Bernard Forot explore the register of colour in the world of ornithology, the art of featherwork and its importance in jewellery
design.
In the first part, Jaques Cuisin will relate the influence and function of colour in bird plumage,
from seduction to pageantry. Master of Art Nelly Saunier will then reveal her passion
for feathers, her art of sublimating them, and how she plays
with their colour
in her artistic creations. Finally, Stéphanie Sivrière will explain
how she draws inspiration from colour
to marry feathers with gemstones and create unique, one-of-a-kind jewellery pieces.
Enjoy this ongoing dialogue between nature and culture, creation
and artistic interpretation, feathers and gems, a sensitive collaboration for Art-A-Porter.
Speakers:
Jean-Bernard Forot: Piaget Heritage Manager (moderator)
Jacques Cuisin: Delegate for conservation/restoration at the Paris Natural History Museum.
Nelly Saunier: Featherworker, French Ministry
of Culture Maître d’Art winner in 2008, winner of the Bettencourt Intelligence of the Hand Award in 2009, made Officier des Arts et des Lettres in 2020.
Stéphanie Sivrière: Piaget Creative Director
- Pearls of Truth: A conversation about pearl history, meaning and testing since antiquity
By Laurent Cartier, Pearl expert, expert in Pearls for the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) laboratory, Violaine Bigot, Heritage Officer,
Chaumet and jewellery
historian Kathia Pinckernelle.
This conversation will delve into the rich history of pearls, tracing their allure and significance back to antiquity. From
ancient civilizations to modern-day
luxury, the discussion will unveil the timeless fascination with pearls and the enduring
appeal of imitating and cultivating them. Discover how pearls have been treasured
by cultures across the globe for their symbolism, beauty and rarity, and how they have graced the necks of royalty, symbolizing power, purity, and prestige. Through an engaging dialogue, the conversation will also provide
insights into the techniques and methods used throughout history
to test and authenticate these exquisite treasures, shedding light on the art and science of pearl identification.
Whether you’re a gem enthusiast, a history buff, or simply curious about the mystique of pearls, this panel discussion will offer a captivating journey
through time, unveiling the hidden secrets behind these lustrous gems and the quest
to imitate them over time. Dive into the world of pearls with this thought- provoking dialogue
and gain a deeper appreciation for the allure and mystery
of these natural treasures that have enchanted generations of people worldwide.
- The Young and the Goldsmith’s Art panel discussion, followed by the Donna Jewel x GemGenève project awards ceremony, in collaboration with the Galdus School.
Laura Inghirami, opinion leader and Founder Donna Jewel, are organising “The young and the goldsmith’s art” panel
discussion in collaboration with GemGenève. Laura
will be interviewing young students and alumni of professional schools in the jewellery goldsmithing sector about their passion and experience as professionals, and the challenges and opportunities that young people
face today when approaching the world
of work. Students will talk about
their studies and dreams for the future of the sector, while
alumni will share real-life testimony about their post-study experience, showing attendees that a
course of study to become a specialized professional in the goldsmith’s art offers many job opportunities and plenty
of fulfilment. The aim is to give voice to young
people and inspire those who wish to embark
on this path.
Speakers:
Laura Inghirami (moderator)
Lucas Hage
(CFP Arts Geneva
alumnus) Tess Sikias
(CFP Arts Geneva
student)
Lucie De Boer (ETVJ
École Technique de la Vallée de Joux alumna) Blue Arnold (ETVJ École Technique de la Vallée de Joux student) Sofia
Mantegazza (Galdus alumna)
Maria Vittoria Villa (Galdus student)
How AI is disrupting the analysis of precious
stones: limits and opportunities.
There’s been
talk of little else other than Artificial Intelligence for some months now. There can be no doubt that AI is on the verge of bringing
far-reaching change to our processes, making them faster
and more autonomous. What are the risks and opportunities of this innovations for the
market in precious stones?
This panel discussion seeks to understand the basic workings of AI using a number of examples
of its implementation in various industries before turning
to look at precious
stones in particular.
Both the Swiss Gemmological Institute
(SSEF) and Gübelin laboratories have set up processes based on machine
learning and AI to further refine analysis of precious stones. Their representatives will review the opportunities opened up by this new method of analysis – and its limits.
Speakers:
Andrea Machalova, deputy editor-in-chief – Bilan; manager,
Bilan Luxe (moderator) Laurent Cartier,
head of special initiatives, SSEF and co-founder, Sustainable Pearls Daniel
Nyfeler, director, Gübelin Gem Lab
Laura Tocmacov, founder, ImpactIA Foundation, a specialist in AI-related ethical
issues
- Pearls: Challenges and New Creative Scenarios
Since
ancient times, pearls have been the perfect
companion for extraordinary jewellery creations and amid ups and downs,
have played a major role in the international jewellery universe.
Today, pearls
are back with a new creative flair – but also face significant challenges related to their farming
and concerns about water ecosystems.
The panel
discussion will focus
on the environmental challenges whilst
also offering keen insights
into trends in fashion and jewellery and discussing
how a new creative perspective can address issues of sustainability.
Join
the conversation with us:
Donatella Zappieri, jewellery business consultant (moderator) Melanie
Georgacopoulos, jewellery designer
Milena Lazazzera, journalist and historian
Laurent Cartier, head of special initiatives, SSEF & co-founder, Sustainable Pearls.
- The future of jewellery
marketing using social media
This panel,
comprising well-known digital
creators, will look at how social media marketing will likely evolve in the global jewellery and
gemstone industry, encompassing Instagram, TikTok and other channels. What
new channels are emerging? Does Threads have a big future
in jewellery marketing? How will AI impact marketing
communications? How can data be used to measure impact? What types of data will matter most? What is the outlook for hashtags?
Speakers:
David Brough, founder
and creative director
of @Jewellery Outlook (moderator) Laura Inghirami, founder and creative director
of @DonnaJewel
Renu Choudhary, founder
and creative director of @TheDiamondTalk Bebe Bakhshi, founder
and creative director of @ChampagneGem Katerina Perez, founder and creative director of @Katerina Perez
- WORKING SESSION
in partnership with Gemmologie & Francophonie
Creating a basis for content in a jeweller/vendor guide and customer
information. Categories, best
practices, facts &
fairytales. What does sustainability mean in the world
of jewellery?
At every GemGenève edition
since November 2021, Gemmologie & Francophonie has organised a panel discussion bringing
together gemmologists and other experts
to discuss current topics
such as Gemmology and social, environmental and scientific
challenges; Colour in gemmology: Nature and culture; and Science meets trade:
what gemstones’ names tell us about
ourselves. To maintain this dynamic and leverage the influence of GemGenève for the benefit of the jewellery world at large, the Association is working in partnership with the exhibition to launch this work session – more are planned at subsequent editions.
Limited to 15-20 people
and organised on an opt-in
basis (registration required), Gemmologie & Francophonie invites professionals, dealers,
gemmologists, historians, leading jewellery brands and students to come and brainstorm, explore ideas and identify practical solutions
to market challenges and difficulties; in short, to sit down round a table to discuss,
debate, and see fresh
ideas emerge.
Notes taken at these closed-door sessions will be published by the Association in its new review GEMMES,
published every six months.
The working session
will be organised on Saturday 4 November at GemGenève and will consider
the following topic:
Creating a basis for content in a jeweller/vendor guide and customer information. Categories, best practices, facts & fairytales.
What constitutes best practice when selling
a jewel or other stone to a customer? How should customers’ questions about treatment, provenance, and extraction conditions be dealt with? The fact is that in Europe, increasing numbers
of customers are asking questions in these kinds of area. What answers should they be given and most importantly, how can the realities of a swiftly-changing sector be explained in simple terms?
The session will be led by the French-speaking gemmology association Gemmologie & Francophonie and be held in French:
For
more details, please
contact [email protected]
Gemgeneve X Literature
- L’Esprit Chaumet
by Gabrielle de Montmorin
L’Esprit Chaumet (‘The Chaumet Spirit’) invites
readers on an unprecedented journey
through the annals of the Parisian high jewellery firm
by presenting a selection of its most
representative pieces, its aesthetic approach and its multifaceted history stretching back over 240 years.
It offers a rare opportunity to go behind
the scenes of a prestigious high jewellery firm and admire its unique pieces, many of which
have never been seen in public
before. Organised into twelve themed chapters (a nod to the Maison’s historic address
at 12 Place Vendôme), the book explores
the key aspects of Chaumet’s identity
and creativity, from its Paris roots to its cosmopolitan clientele, from its sources of inspiration to its iconic diadems via its inventiveness, its captivating use of colour, its playful spirit, its pieces inspired by nature,
and more besides.
With over 450 illustrations, L’Esprit Chaumet is henceforth a key work of reference
for one of the big names in French knowhow and luxury
jewellery.
- Minéralogie Enchantée,
40 histoires de pierres
(Enchanted Mineralogy – 40 stories of stones) by Patricia Desmortiers, illustrated by Lola-Muna
Lugand
There are fine works of science dealing with stones and fine works dealing with jewels, too, all with fine photos,
but until now no book has combined
the scientific and technical
viewpoints in a technical-cum- literary approach. The surprise generated by a stone is first and foremost the fruit of an encounter
and emotion that needs scientists to explain it – and craft specialists such as lapidaries, jewellers and jewelsmiths to embody it. This book seeks to preserve all the enchantment of discovery whilst revealing its secrets. To rise to this challenge, the book opts for illustrations rather than photos,
a natural choice here: the drawings support and highlight
the twofold approach combining
passion and scientific rigour.
- Yewn – Contemporary Art Jewels and the Silk Road, by Juliet-Weir de La Rochefoucauld
Dickson Yewn is the quintessential modern-day literatus. His
contemporary jewellery is a crystallisation of thousands
of years of Chinese material history.
Square rings rub shoulders with antique porcelain
forms, shapes taken from Ming furniture and the geometric latticework found in Chinese
architecture. Yewn focuses on these traditional Chinese motifs, but also understands the significance of different materials. Wood,
one of the five elements in Chinese
philosophy, is present in most of his collections.
To wear a contemporary jewel by Dickson Yewn is to delve back into China’s works of art and its history, blended with a contemporary twist. This new monograph of his work details the inspiration Yewn has drawn
from the Imperial
court, exploring its influence on the art of jewellery, from silks,
embroidery, painting, architecture and cloisonné enamel to courtesan culture. Beautiful, detailed illustrations and photographs highlight Yewn’s fealty to the artisanal techniques employed by the Imperial courts. Esteemed jewellery writer
Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld invites
the reader to explore
the deeper symbolism behind Yewn’s jewels.
- Lydia Courteille – A Jeweller’s Odyssey, by Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld
For more than 40 years, Parisian jeweller
Lydia Courteille has been confounding Place Vendome jewellery houses with her bold and brazen designs.
Her unique and avant-garde style is legendary; her collections spark the senses. In this impassioned new biography,
Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld takes us on a voyage around the
world, sharing the stunning locations
and famous women from whom Courteille draws inspiration.
In the disposable world of 21st century consumerism, amidst the monotony of marketing algorithms and ceaseless production lines, Lydia Courteille has blazed her own creative trail, refusing to let the individuality of her work slip from her fingers. Her jewels crystalise memories, honour the dead, make powerful social statements, poke fun at modern absurdities, and transport us to the other side of the planet. Guided by an acclaimed author and jewellery expert, this colourful monograph renders her odysseys of creation and discovery in stunning visual detail.
- NAHMA: A GULF POLYPHONY, by Flee Project
The pearls
of the Gulf have fired the imagination and desire of people worldwide
for centuries, their magnificence matched only by the courage
of the divers who found them. This project aims to honour the memory
of these valiant free divers, their culture and their music by means of a musical compilation featuring previously unreleased, original recordings of pearl divers and inspired modern-day compositions by vanguard musicians. Together with
this record, an extended book in Arabic
and English is available featuring contributions from regional experts and artists to contextualise the tremendously rich theme of pearling
and its music.
- GEMMO PURSUIT, by Asso’Mur (based on an idea by Marie Chabrol)
Gemmo Pursuit is a quiz game covering
the world of precious stones.
The game was originally created by two gemmology teachers
as a fun way for their students
to revise. After two years of use by gemmology students, there is now a properly
published version that everyone can own!
Gemmo Pursuit is based around questions about precious stones divided into six categories:
Chemistry | Crystallography and Mineralogy | History
Physical Gemmology | Geography and Gemmology | Gemmological Nomenclature
Some of the questions are quite specialised; the game will appeal to connoisseurs and those with at least some knowledge of conventional gemmology.
About GemGenève
GemGenève represents a unique hub where jewellery designers, dealers in precious stones, retailers, collectors, connoisseurs and buyers both professional and private can all gather under the same roof. Over the course of four days, GemGenève offers an opportunity to acquire exceptional pieces and to be inspired by a community of specialists in the field of gemmology and jewellery. It is a laboratory of creativity and innovation, bringing together recognised designers and emerging talents; a world of design, of rare gems, of antique and contemporary jewellery. Created by exhibitors, GemGenève offers a platform for expression and exchange that encompasses passion, expertise and education.
GemGenève – 7th edition
2-5 November 2023
Thursday-Sunday
10 a.m. – 6.30 p.m.
Palexpo Hall 6 | Geneva | Switzerland
For more information, please visit https://gemgeneve.com/.